From Hiva Oa we sailed the 40 miles to Ua Hika, only to find that all the anchorages were very rolly and we couldn’t take the dingy ashore as the surf was too high. After one night there we moved straight on to Nuka Hiva the main island in the marquises.
Our anchorage to the north of the island was easily the best; sheltered from the wind and swell surrounded by towering cliffs and rimmed with coral reef.
Although there were a few people living around the shore, who looked after the small coconut plantation, there was no road access and the only way in was by boat, walking or horseback.
The Marquesans are excellent horsemen and each morning one of the local workers would ride his horse over the steep pass to the next bay to collect bread and supplies for the little community.
By foot it took us an hour and half to get to this village. Fortunately there was a small restaurant there which specialised in local cuisine, which enabled us to recuperate before heading back to the boat.
Unfortunately there was only one thing wrong with the anchorage and that was the dreaded nono flies, a small aggressive biting fly that are found on the beaches. You don’t realise you have been bitten until several hours later when you come out with bite marks all over you. It seems they are only interested in attacking the females as Penny and our friend Annaka where both badly attacked.
We are now in the main town of Nuku Hiva stocking up with fresh vegetables and supplies before heading to our next destination the Tuamotu, another sprawling archipelago which covers 1500 nautical miles and is approximately 500 miles from here.