Since Patmos we have visited Lipso, Leros, Kalymnos and now Kos, where Emily leaves us to head back to Verbier to continue her travels. The islands are all very beautiful and unique in some way. Our most memorable time was in Kalymnos famous for its sponge divers. Not that any one on the island still dive, since with everything else in the Med it’s all fished out. Although the shops sell the sponges here, they probably all come from Africa or Asia.
Our anchorage in Kalymnos was up a little bay on the west side of the island, surrounded by spectacular pitted cliffs, with just a flash of green grass and a few houses at its head. The village ashore probably had a population of 20, and most of them would be over 60. Up until 2 years ago there was no road to the settlement and the only way in was by boat or walking across a mountain range. The few old people that are left live off the land with their vegie patch, chickens and goats. Most of the Greek islands would have been like this, before all the tourists arrived.
We were befriended by an ex sponge diver, now school teacher and taverna owner. We were his only customers for the 3 days we were there. Because it was so hot outside, over 40degs, we were invited to eat in his house – one room with the kitchen sink – a bowl in the back yard!! There was no menu, he just told us what he had on hand and then proceeded to cook up a wonderful Greek feast. This is a huge contrast from the bustling tourist island of Kos.